Before Leaving: Insurance, Visa & Logistics

On booking your flights and any deposits, also purchase travel insurance. I have used Allianz for my overseas trips and have been very happy. Claims, when submitted, have been processed promptly, and they include comprehensive mountain recovery, which was needed in Nepal. didn’t know at the time of booking that Iran, the USA and Israel were going to be at war, so having insurance was good security in case all air travel was grounded. Also, you will need to ensure you have evacuation insurance coverage in case of a medical emergency requiring a helicopter evacuation. We saw it happen, and at 4000m+, I don’t think it would be gentle on your hip pocket.

You will require a passport with at least 6 months remaining before expiry and a tourist visa. I strongly recommend using the online Nepal service to secure your ‘visa on arrival’ within 15 days before you depart. This means you have applied for a tourist visa (select 15, 30 or 90 days) and paid for it. It was one less thing to do on arrival and made for faster processing at immigration (line up, show printed visa & payment receipt, get immigration stamp, done), which, at 11.30 pm, was appreciated. Make sure you have a printed copy of the visa and payment receipt. I did have these, and it saved me having to pay a second time as I wasn’t ‘on their system’. It was suggested that extra passport photographs be taken, but this was not required when using the ‘visa-on-arrival’ pathway.

Weirdly, you need to go through a metal detector when leaving the airport… apparently, a lot of people try to smuggle gold into Nepal. Not this traveller!

Communications

I was taking my phone regardless because of the quality and easy-to-use camera features. With wifi being pretty good at hotels and lodges along the trail, communication via WhatsApp was solid. I did purchase an Airalo eSIM card that said it would let me connect to the local Ncell network, but that wasn’t the case outside Kathmandu. I would recommend considering Nepal Telecom (NTC), which is state-owned and a better bet if you are heading into remote areas, national parks, or the Everest/Annapurna regions.

My Garmin inReach mini was my other option if needed to send basic texts or require the security of two-way communication in an emergency.

Kathmandu

We included an acclimatisation day of temple visits and tours in the Kathmandu Valley (7 UNESCO-recognised sites) before heading out on the Manaslu Circuit.

Being in Kathmandu from mid-April to mid-May landed us right in Baisakh, which is considered highly auspicious and historically associated with new beginnings and fortune. Amid spring-green landscapes, pleasant weather, and low dust levels, we encountered wedding parades everywhere. Additionally, naming ceremonies and a range of other religious celebrations were encountered spontaneously.

Places visited and recommended;

• Pashupatinath Temple (Hindu site): Situated on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River, this is Nepal’s most important Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and draws thousands of pilgrims. The Bagmatic River features open-air cremation ghats. As a side note, before bodies are wrapped and cremated, their eyes are removed so the corneas can be donated to the Fred Hollows Foundation for use in corneal transplants.
• The Patan Durbar (Royal) Square & Museum is a world-class collection of sacred art and historical artifacts, spanning 13 centuries of Nepalese religious history. The display of metalwork and description of how gold foil was applied is amazing. Likewise, the detail in wood carvings around pillars, friezes, and window sills is exquisite.
• Nearby, we visited the Golden Temple (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar). Named for the gleaming, polished gilt-copper facade that covers the three-tiered pagoda structure in the main courtyard. The temple’s main priest is a young boy under 12 who spends a month performing the rituals and is then rotated out in favour of another priest. As we entered the narrow entry, a procession of priests, young boys, and families was filling out for their naming/coming-of-age ceremony.
• Bhaktapur Durbar (Royal) Square (Cultural City & medieval royal enclave of the Mall dynasty). Built in the 14th century, it remained their capital for over 400 years. With 99 courtyards at its peak (about 15 still present), three palaces (one still present) and dozens of temples, this area is rich in culture and has plenty to explore.
• Boudhanath Stupa (Buddhist site). Just a few minutes from where we stayed was the most important site for Tibetan Buddhism outside of Tibet. Lit up a night, the eyes of Buddha perched atop the white dome are impressive. Built in the 14C, the site records the presence of a smaller stupa dating to the 5C.

If you want to do some shopping for marasla tea, hiking gear, Nepal flags, dal bhat spices or cashmere scarves/blankets, check out the Thamel area. It offers a bustling, maze-like network of pedestrian-friendly streets packed with adventure gear, handcrafted souvenirs, and textiles.

Manaslu Circuit Itinerary

Our trek was 12 days long, with a car travel day on either end. The 12 days included two scheduled acclimatisation days (sleeping in the same lodge and a day-hike), but we found we didn’t need the second acclimatisation day at Samdo. As a ‘bonus’, we hiked from Tal to Lamjung, which put us at the start of the Annapurna Circuit and led us to cross paths with freshly smelling new recruits. Word of caution. This section travelled through some lovely forest, steep stair descents and leeches lurking in the grass. Strong suggestion -stay on the trail, and spray some insect repellent on your boots/socks/long pants!

Trail Routine & Photography

We quickly realised that starting 30 minutes earlier each day provided a clear trail ahead and increased our enjoyment of trekking. An average day was waking at 6.00, packing, having breakfast at 6.30, and being on the trail at 7.00 am.

Regarding photography, it quickly became apparent that the morning was the best time. As the day warmed, the wind shifted late morning, the breeze blowing up from the valley… bringing a haze that obscured the blue sky and smudged the view. The wind changed again in the evening as the land cooled, and it reversed, moving back down into the valley.

Gear Lists & Recommendations

Check out Manaslu Circuit Electronics: My Ultimate Gear Guide and The Ultimate Manaslu Gear List: Pack Like a Pro to sort through your gear pros and cons for the Manaslu Circuit.